the ultimate switzerland roadtrip

December 13, 2023 by Alexandra Matteo

How did we land on Switzerland for our honeymoon? Hard to say really. Our original idea of Japan was off the list because it was still in lockdown. Hawaii felt too cliché (though I argued to Marco it was cliché for a reason). The biggest factor; however, was that I was in a Broadway show at the time, and we wanted somewhere we wouldn’t lose whole days to travel. And that, my friends, is how we landed on the gorgeous country of Switzerland for our honeymoon.

We were warned EXTENSIVELY about how expensive Switzerland is; however, after over a decade of living in NYC it didn’t seem quite so bad as everyone was saying — for instance, I found lodging to be extremely reasonable. Where you will really notice the steep price tag is transportation. We decided to drive the country, but if you are planning to take the train I recommend looking into the Swiss Travel Pass and/or the Swiss Half Fare Card.

*Views along our drive to Interlakenfrom Zurich*

DAY ONE | ZURICH TO INTERLAKEN

After picking up our rental car in Zurich we got on the road and headed towards our first stop of the day Lucerne. Lucerne is a small city in Switzerland known for its preserved medieval architecture. When we arrived, there was a farmers market happening in the center of town where we grabbed some local cheeses, an espresso and walked the famous Chapel Bridge before getting on our way to Interlaken.

En route to Interlaken you will pass Lake Lungern and Lake Brienz. We were exhausted after our long flight, and decided to stop in Iseltwald to have lunch at Hotel Chalet du Lac (and a quick nap in their parking lot). I found the food to be a bit underwhelming, but the views from the terrace more than make up for it. From here it’s a short 15 minute drive to Interlaken.

CHECKING IN | MAISON BERGDORF

For most of our time in Switzerland we chose to stay in boutique B&B’s — I cannot recommend this enough. It pains me to tell you that the B&B we stayed in during our time in Interlaken has since relocated. It was one of our favorite stays on our trip. They have since moved West to a beautiful 300 year old manor in the stunning Val-de-Travers in the canton Neuchâtel. If you travel to that area I highly recommend you booking a room.

*One of our favorite Bed and Breakfasts from our trip, Maison Bergdorf (since relocated)*

DAY TWO | HIKING THE FAULHORNWEG

*View from our ascend to Schynige Platte*

After a restful evening we got up bright and early to begin the Faulhornweg. Touted by Lonely Planet as “the holy grail of day hikes” the Faulhornweg is considered by many to be one of the best day hikes in the world (not to be dramatic). The 11.68 mile hike begins at the cogtrain station of Schynige Platte and has an elevation gain of 3,760 ft. Early hikers will be rewarded with views of the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau. To get to the trailhead you will take the Schynige Platte Bahn from Wilderswil and descend using the Grindelwald-First gondola cable car.

Quick Tip! There is a special ticket for hikers that you can purchase which allows you to ascend in one location and descend in another, plus travel back to your starting point. I promise it sounds more complicated than it is. I plan to do a more in depth post about the ins and outs of this hike in the coming months.

Upon returning to Maison Bergdorf from our hike, we took a nap, showered and headed to Bistro Alpenblick for dinner — a one michelin star restaurant famous for its modern take on Alpine cuisine.

DAY THREE | LAUTERBRUNNEN

When you close your eyes and picture Switzerland, chances are the above image is the view you have in mind. Lauterbrunnen is a picture postcard little town with ample hiking and the famous Trümmelbach Falls. If we were to do this trip again, we would have spent some extra time in Interlaken so we could have done more hiking in the Jungfrau Region. Unfortunately, Marco got sick, so after this we returned to our B&B so he could rest. I took the Harderbahn up to the Harder Klum lookout for a romantic solo sunset before heading out the next day.

DAY 4 | INTERLAKEN TO ZERMATT

We debated whether or not Zermatt was worth a stop… Yes… the Matterhorn, but people went on and on about how touristy it is and… that’s not really our vibe (is it anyone’s?). Plus, while the idea of a no car town sounded charming, it also sounded daunting. At the end of the day we decided to spend two nights in Zermatt and it was THE BEST decision. We used credit card points and splurged on two nights at the Cervo Mountain Resort. Wow! Best decision ever. While Zermatt can certainly lean touristy, Cervo is perched further up in the mountains (Don’t fret, there’s a private elevator down to the street level) and is a luxurious world all it’s own. A holistically designed hotel, with thoughtful details and casual luxury…it was hard for us to leave. After settling into our hotel, we cleaned up and headed into town for a wonderful dinner at Le Gitan.

DAY 5 | ZERMATT

*Stumbled upon some sheep on our 5 lakes hike*

Waking up in Cervo Mountain Resort with views for days in the comfiest of sheets…it was hard to muster up the energy to leave the resort. But we came to Zermatt for one reason and one reason only…to get up close and personal with the Matterhorn.

One of the best things about hiking in the Swiss Alps, is that the entire country is literally set up for it. The trailheads in Zermatt start at roughly 2500m elevation. So you have views THE. WHOLE. TIME. Our initial plan for the day was to do the seven mile five lakes walk and branch off to make our way to Gornergrat. This was….not our best laid plan. Basically because we ended up hobbling together one moderate hike and 2 difficult hikes to get to our end goal. We certainly could have seen all the same views with much less effort had we planned a little better, but alas…you live, you learn. After hiking nearly 15 miles, we took the train back down to Zermatt, had a hamburger and headed back to the Cervo Mountain Ashram Spa to lick our wounds.

*Marco taking in the views at Gornergrat*

*The Matterhorn and it’s reflection in the lake below*

DAY 6 | LUGANO VIA THE GRIMSELPASS

After another delicious breakfast at Cervo’s Bazaar (have I mentioned how much I love that all the hotels have a bougie breakfast included) we made our way back to our car and began the journey to Lugano. Lugano is a bit out of the way, so if you wanted to you could skip this stop. If you are traveling via train, I would recommend skipping Lugano and taking the The Glacier Express from Zermatt to St. Moritz.

Lugano is the Italian canton of Switzerland…where there are italians there is usually good food and wine (plus I swoon anytime I get to hear Marco speak Italian). So off we went!

*Views from our balcony at Relaise Castello di Morcote*

CHECKING IN | RELAIS CASTELLO DI MORCOTE

Marco and I stayed at the Relais Castello di Morcote and I could not recommend it enough. I don’t know how I stumbled across this hotel. I was struggling to find anything that looked aesthetic and wasn’t a gazillion dollars. Then one day, I was perusing the ethers of the interwebs when I found this gem. If I could live in this hotel I would. It is STUNNING and perched atop a promontory entirely surrounded by the lake.

On the property is the castle of Morcote, the only medieval fortress in the Lugano territory and heart of the family’s vineyard, where high quality wine, olive oil and honey are produced. All of which you will have the pleasure of sampling during your stay. Marco and I spent most of our time here walking the vineyard, checking out the castle and basking in the sun on the lake.

*One of the many amazing breakfasts we had in Switzerland*

For dinner in Morcote we took a small winding road up to the top of the mountain to Ristorante Vicania. As you reach the end of the road you are greeted by horses grazing in the pasture, and a beautiful stone barn surrounded by olive trees and twinkle lights. It was a magical evening to cap off our one night in Lugano. In the morning we rented a boat to take out on the lake before heading to our next stop — the Engadine.

DAY 7 | LUGANO TO ENGADIN

*When the sky turned purple, that was our cue to pull over and snap a pic.*

My dear friend Rachel spent a year in Switzerland. In fact, she met her husband studying in the Swiss Alps. When I had told her our honeymoon plans, both her and her husband insisted we check out the Engadin. This area happens to be where the Swiss National Park is located so we, of course, added it to our trip.

CHECKING IN | VILLA FLOR

Unconventional, unique and anything but ordinary - the Villa Flor in S-chanf combines decades of tradition with artistic modernity. Art and nature lovers alike will find a very special home here, on the edge of the Swiss National Park.

From the moment Ladina (owner of Villa Flor) greeted us, we knew we were arriving somewhere truly unique. She showed us around the 7 room in and promptly made dinner reservations for all 3 nights we were staying including our favorite meal of our trip…The Colani Bistrot.

DAY 8 | HIKING THE ENGADINE

It pains me that I cannot for the life of me remember the hike we did in Engadine, because it was one of my favorites. If you go and stay at Villa Flor, Ladina will give you the route. A fun little story that happened along the way…Marco accidentally took me on a trail that was closed (he insisted it wasn’t) and we almost died. But shortly after we were greeted with the most charming alpine restaurant and all was forgiven and forgotten. So let this serve as a warning to follow all trail markers and signs.

Our evening ended with another incredible meal at Dal Mulin — a modern country restaurant in the heart of St Moritz.

Unfortunately for us, DAY 9 ended up being a bit of a bust as a storm rolled in and we were forced to abandon our dreams of visiting the The Swiss National Park. We were a bit heartbroken, but were happy to spend the day curled up in bed and recharging our batteries before moving onto the smallest city in the world Fürstenau .

DAY 10 | FÜRSTENAU

There’s something you should know about me…if there is a bougie restaurant that has been written up by the Michelin Guide in the middle of nowhere…I’m gonna want to make a special trip to go there. That, my friends, is how we ended up in Fürstenau. If I had known a little more about how close this was to Engadine, I honestly would have just stayed an extra day at Villa Flor and driven to Casa Caminada for dinner.

DAY 11 | TAMINA THERME BAD RAGAZ

By day 11 Marco and I had reached our hiking limit for the trip. So after waking up to another gloomy day, we were grumpy and ready for a change of pace. Which is how we ended up at the Tamina Therme Bad Ragaz.

Here’s how Tamina Therme works…upon checking in you are given a bracelet that scans you into your locker, the baths and (for an extra fee) the Sauna World. After hanging around the baths for a while we were a bit…bored. To be honest, it didn’t feel as secluded and luxurious as I was imagining it would. We saw some people going into the sauna, so Marco and I decided to check it out. OMG am I glad we did. It bears mentioning that the Sauna is co-ed and does NOT allow swimsuits. As we entered the locker room and everyone began to disrobe, I turned to Marco and said “if you’re a bird, I’m a bird'“ and off we went.

As we sat down in the dry sauna, we noticed a shockingly large amount of people following in behind us. A few minutes later and healer in a towel came in, dimmed the lights and performed an experience infusion ceremony. The sauna got up to 120 degrees and the performance included snow, dance and music. It was a wild experience (especially since we had no idea what we were walking into). I highly suggest checking it out.

DAY 12 | A COW BEAUTY PAGENT IN APPENZELLE

Is that a cow in a headdress? It sure is. When I began researching Appenzell, I quickly discovered we would be in Switzerland during the EVENT. OF. THE. SEASON. The Appenzell Alpine Cow Descent. During September the Alpine cattle descent is the best-known of all traditional mountain festivities. After more than four months of grazing in alpine pastures, cows make their way down to the plain. Each herd is led by the 3 most beautiful cows (this is actually how it’s described) who are dressed to the nines in head dresses and big bells. So it goes without saying that we had to attend. We tasted delicious local alpine cuisine, watched a pig race, and came home with pounds of Alpine Cheese.

DAY 13 | SCHÄFLER & AESCHER – PANORAMIC HIKE

I was pretty pumped to hike in Appenzell. When we first started planning our trip I actually had hoped to stay in one of the Alpine Lodges, but none of them were available during our stay. So day hiking it was!

After taking the Ebenalpbahn to Mountain Station at Ebenalp we hiked over the Chlus Alp up to the Berggasthaus Schäfler (approx. 1 hour walk). Even with the snow this was a relatively easy path to the Chlus Alp, from there things get a bit steeper as you ascent to the Schäfler (at 1925 m). But the extra push is absolutely worth it as we were rewarded by the most jaw dropping snow capped mountains.

From here we we hiked back to Chlus Alp and then turned off to the right. We continued down a narrow path until we finally saw the backside of the Äscher hut (the most photographed inn in Switzerland of which i don’t have a photo of). It was here we stopped for some traditional Alpine food before making our way through three caves and back to the Ebenalpbahn and then making our way to the Zurich.

DAY 16 | ZURICH

After two weeks on the road we made our way to our final destination of the trip…Zurich. After MUCH research Marco and I decided to stay at the Signau House & Garden Boutique Hotel and couldn’t have been happier. A beautifully remodeled villa in Zurich-Riesbach, a neighborhood very close to the popular Seefeld-quarter, Signau house is secluded enough to feel like an escape, but close enough that you can walk anywhere in the city.

Our time in Zurich was mostly spent getting lost in the city. We strolled the streets for hours, stopping for espresso when the spirit moved us and popping in specialty stores like La Flor and Limited Stock. We ended our evening with an incredible dinner at La Muña in La Réserve Eden au Lac Zurich and finished with after dinner drinks surrounded by Picasso’s at Kronenhalle.

The next morning we hopped on a plane back to the states — exhausted, stuffed to the gills and ready to plan our next adventure.

*Views from our ATV on our drive to the Western side of Milos, Greece*

Always Ask The Locals…

October 28, 2023 by Alexandra Matteo

I am a woman who loves to research. One of the joys of planning a trip for me is scouring the internet for the best food, hotels and hikes around. My husband on the other hand, is one who just shows up (sometimes without a car rental or a place to stay) and…figures it out. Over the years we’ve come to find we are a perfect little travel duo.

We really lucked out on our sailing day. After stumbling upon Fotis readying the Kirki one morning, we arranged to come back the following day to explore the crystal blue waters of Milos and the surrounding islands. He discouraged us from going to the more touristy stops and instead took us on a locals guided tour from sun up to sun down. It was incredible.

While out at sea, Marco started questioning Fotis (our captain) about the most beautiful part of the island….and boy am I glad he did. After pointing to a spot on the map that read Κάτεργο Παραλία we book marked it and planned to adventure there the following day.

Getting to Κάτεργο Παραλία was an uphill battle….quite literally. We had noticed the previous day that our ATV’s get up and go seemed to have got up and went. We decided about 20 minutes into our journey to head back to town and switch her out before heading west. And thank goodness we did, because even with our new ATV it was still touch and go a few times.

The western part of Milos is the wildest part of the island, and only accessible by ATV or boat. There are no villages here, only a few settlements and some old mines. Almost all of western Milos belongs to the Natura 2000 Network (a network of protected areas covering Europe's most valuable and threatened species and habitats).

*Secluded beach on the Western side of Milos*

*Exploring the completely secluded beach*

A steep 15 minute walk down from where we parked, we stumbled upon a very special and secluded little stretch of crystal clear ocean. There were little abandoned buildings in this small cove and plenty of caves to climb and explore. Here, it’s easy to believe we had the entire island to ourself.

After exploring this pristine stretch of coastline, we hopped back on our ATV and headed back in the direction of our hotel stopping when the spirit and scenery moved us.

*A stop along the ridge to take in the views*

Obstruction Peak via Deer Park Trail

October 28, 2023 by Alexandra Matteo

It had been two weeks since our trek to the Sahale Glacier, and I was still riding the high of that alpine meadow hike. We were continuing to battle smoke from the wildfires when we headed to Olympic National Park, but decided to chance it with one more big hike before the weather turned in the PNW.

This trail starts like many in the Pacific Northwest…densely wooded. We learned our lesson from Sahale Arm and while there was still ample sticks laying around grabbed two sturdy ones to use as trekking poles. Game Changer.

Just when you’re wondering where the views are on this epic hike, the trees thinned out and we were greeted by the most golden meadow either of us had ever seen.

*Views along the ridge as we hiked to Obstruction Peak in Olympic National Park*

Things really open up on the ridge with incredible views and flat easy walking. Even with the smog from the fires we were able to see the snow capped mountains in the distance. I’d like to go back and do this hike when the wildflowers are in bloom, as I’ve heard it’s stunning. This 13 mile hike took us under 5 hours to complete so I think it’s a pretty big bang for your buck.

*Golden hour on our hike to Obstruction Peak*

All images for this blog post were created in collaboration with Marco Pannella.

The Complete Milos, Greece Travel Guide

August 26, 2023 by Alexandra Matteo

After over a year of international travel being shut down, the world was finally beginning to reopen. Marco and I knew we wanted to travel to Greece, but landing on Milos was part impulse and part thanks to Selena over at Find Us Lost. It could be because Marco proposed the morning after we arrived, or the beautiful weather, or the fact that we got everywhere by ATV, or a million other things that made our time so special, but our trip to Milos was one to take up lots of space in my heart.

I can confidently say Milos is one of my favorite places I’ve ever been to. Known for it’s unforgettable beaches (the infamous Sarakiniko Beach is located here), fresh seafood, quaint towns and beautiful sunsets, Milos is great for couples looking to relax by the beach and the adventurer alike.

In my opinion the best way to experience Milos is by ATV. Greece requires you to have an international drivers permit which you can get through AAA. They will check this before handing over your vehicle so make sure you are prepared. Our ATV was waiting and ready at the airport when we arrived. We packed it full to the brim and headed towards our hotel.

You don’t really need an itinerary when traveling to Milos. We had our map downloaded (always recommend having your map available offline when traveling internationally) and marked with the beaches we wanted to visit and restaurants we’d heard about. Our daily routine consisted mainly of waking up and heading to our favorite breakfast spot for coffee and pastries, heading out to explore a new beach, coming home to shower before dinner and sunset. Rinse and repeat.

*Exploring Firapotomos and the Venetian Castle*

WHERE TO STAY

We stayed at Asterias Boutique Hotel, a family-run boutique hotel located between Sarakiniko beach and Papafragas beach – which coincidentally is where we got engaged. The hotel is in an ideal location for exploring the island, but not walking distance to food. Each night we’d take our ATV for a 15 minute drive into one of the seaside towns to grab dinner.

Bonus! There is an amazing local goat cheese shop at the base of the hill leading up to the hotel. Marco and I brought back about 10 wheels of cheese with us and they were all AMAZING. Highly recommend stopping by if you are in the area.

HOTELS IN MILOS

Asterias Boutique Hotel – $ – we loved this family-run boutique hotel. We had a private balcony with a view of the ocean. It was extremely affordable and in an ideal location for exploring the best beaches in Milos. Where I stayed.

Miland Suites – $$$ – luxury boutique hotel located on a hilltop near Adamantas. Beautiful pool with an incredible view if you’d prefer to hang by the hotel. My friends just spent part of their honeymoon here and loved it.

Cave Suites Milos - $$$$ – I remember driving by this hotel while we were visiting Sarakiniko and saying to Marco “when we come back, I want to stay there.” All suites provide a balcony with private pool and panoramic sea views. The famous Sarakiniko beach is located about 1 km away. If I were honeymooning this would be my pick!

Melian Boutique Hotel & Spa – $$$$ – Luxury boutique hotel located in the scenic village of Pollonia. A luxurious retreat right next to the beach. Pollonia has plenty of food options within walking distance.

Skinopi Lodge - $$$ - To be honest….this hotel is my actual dream. A private nine acre property of unspoiled land, hides seven stone villas amongst olive trees, lavender and thyme, on a slope right above the sea.

*Traditional Cycladic homes in Firapotomos*

HOUSES IN MILOS

If I were to do it over again, I would split my time between a bougie hotel and a Cycladic home on the North side of the island. I was mind blown by the houses that just opened up onto the beach. It’s like something out of a movie. Some of the houses behind me in the photo above are rentals Here are a few that I have book marked for next time.

Terra Mare Suites - $$- A unique two-level waterfront property. Excellent location for exploring the island.

Costa Mare - $$$$ - Stunning beachfront 3 bedroom 3 bath villa with private pool in Pollonia

Venia’s Guesthouse – $ – a comfortable apartment-style building with a sea-view patio in the quaint town of Pollonia.

The Cove - $$ - Beachfront Cycladic home

Blue Mare – $$ – a traditional Cycladic beachfront home on one of my favorite beaches on the island

WHERE TO EAT

Kivotos ton Gefseon - we began every morning at this little patisserie. It is hands down the best pastry shop in all of Milos. It’s also a great shop for locally made gifts to bring back with you to the states. Try their watermelon pie and baklava.

Astakas Cafe Restaurant - Amazing sunset! Go walk around Klima and then come here for a romantic dinner. We found this to be one of the better meals on the island and you can’t beat the ambiance.

O! Hamos! Tavern - Legit the best meal of our trip. A truly authentic Greek tavern. We came here twice for the lamb cooked in paper. It was so good.

Sirocco Volcanic all day restaurant - The food here was amazing. Come for lunch and get lounge chairs with umbrellas (free if you are eating here!). The ground is so hot your food is cooked in the sand. It’s also the best beach to go to if it’s windy on the island.

Medusa - located adjacent to Mandrakia beach, and serves up fresh fish right on the water. The view is beautiful, but If I’m being honest I found the food here to be underwhelming. However it’s the most popular restaurant on the island so maybe we went on an off night.

Ergina - Greek restaurant serving up homemade pasta and lots of other Greek specialties. Beautiful view of sunset.

Yialos - Excellent restaurant with tables right on the water. The saganaki with honey was incredible.

WHERE TO BEACH

PAPAFRAGAS BEACH

This beach is where I got engaged, so I’m quite partial to it. It’s actually made up of two ‘fingers’ of water that carved the rock out from the ocean. It’s calm and quite secluded so Marco and I enjoyed coming here for romantic swim

FIRIPLAKA BEACH

The rocks here are a beautiful red color. As we drove up on our ATV I felt as though I was in a movie. It was absolutely one of my favorite beaches and has a traditional “beach club” vibe with umbrellas, chairs and food/drink options.

SARAKINIKO BEACH - A unique beach made of lava that’s been bleached by the sun and sea. I would recommend getting here super early to avoid the crowds as it’s the most ‘touristy’ beach on the island. Despite the crowds, it’s absolutely stunning and a must visit on your trip. Especially beautiful at sunset.

PALIOCHORI BEACH - We had such a lovely day here. Restaurants on this beach will cook your food on the sand. There are lounge chairs and umbrellas here, and it’s the best beach to go to if it’s windy on the island. The sand is unbelievably hot here so be sure your sandals can slip on and off easily.

FIRAPOTOMOS BEACH

A pristine stretch of beach protected by the nearby cliffs. Known for its white-washed houses, and nearby cliff jumping spots. This was one of my favorite beach days. It felt very secluded and if we were to come back I would want to rent one of the Cycladic houses here that opens up onto the beach.

KATERGO BEACH

Marco and I chartered a private sail boat one of our days in Milos and the captain said this was his favorite spot on the island. So….away we went. A very special and secluded little stretch of crystal clear ocean. Truly unique and hidden away from the crowds, this beach was quite a journey to find. It’s roughly a 15 minute hike down from where you can park your ATV. Once you arrive you will find abandoned buildings and caves to explore. Excellent spot for snorkeling. From here (if you’re craving more sand) head to Gerontas Beach.

GERONTAS BEACH

A hidden treasure. One of the most beautiful and secluded beaches in Milos. Some boats will stop here on the way to Kleftiko. It’s about a 20 minute walk down to the beach from where you park (same parking as Katergo)..

*Exploring Milos and the surrounding islands by boat*

MILOS BY BOAT

There’s no better way to experience Milos than by boat. We headed down to the port one morning and flagged down the captain of the private sailing yacht “Kirki.” After agreeing on a price we arrived the next morning and spent the most MAGICAL day at sea. When it came time for lunch our captain Fotis got in the water, caught a fish and prepared it for us right there! We explored all over the island, plus some islands only accessible by boat. This is who we did our sailing day with and we cannot recommend them highly enough. Worth every penny.

*Unbelieveable view along the road to Katergo*

GET LOST ON AN ATV

One of our best and most memorable days on the island was trying to find Katergo Beach that was recommended to us by a local ship captain. We ventured to the remote Western part of the island and spent all day getting lost. It was magical!

SUNSET AT THE VENETIAN CASTLE

one of the highest points on the island, this castle dates back to the 13th century. If you don’t mind climbing stairs, this is one of the best spots to catch sunset. I’d recommend getting there at least a half an hour before sunset to snag a spot. Marco and I parked ourselves on the roof of the church and headed down the hill to Plaka for dinner in town afterwards.

All images for this blog post were created in collaboration with Marco Pannella.

*Sunset captured from the Venetian Castle in Milos, Greece.*

A Long Weekend In Joshua Tree

August 15, 2023 by Alexandra Matteo

As we sat stranded in the middle of Joshua Tree National Park, I couldn’t help but be grateful we broke down with at least a single bar of service…

Every year around March Marco and I go through what I lovingly refer to as ‘the blues.’ It’s that sweet spot post holidays, before the weather gets warm, where there’s not a 3 day weekend in sight. In anticipation of the blues, I had suggested to Marco we make a quick getaway to the west coast over our last 3 day weekend in February. We had the points, my brother’s girlfriend generously offered for us to use her car, what could go wrong?

*Big Blue hosted by Allison of Wonder Valley, where we stayed during our trip*

WHERE TO STAY

For me, the way to go here is airbnb all the way. One of the best things about Joshua Tree is the surrounding towns are artsy and have a really cool vibe. So the airbnb’s in the area are comfortable and aesthetic. I’d like to come back for a girls trip and rent one of the larger homes with a pool/hot tub.

We decided to stay in Big Blue — a vintage airstream hosted by Allison of Wonder Valley. For us it was important to feel in the middle of nature and be right near the entrance to the park. This ticked both of those boxes. Another bonus…the trailer was appointed with luxurious linens and home goods from the owner’s brand Wonder Valley which I took full advantage of after all day in the sun.

CHOLLA CACTUS GARDEN

Here’s the thing…I’m not a morning person, so I know this is a big ask, but you must experience Cholla Cactus Garden at sunrise. Marco and I actually came here our first morning and our last morning to watch the sunlight paint these beauties with unimaginable color. Joshua Tree is super accessible so this garden is just a short walk from the nearby parking lot. But watch where you step as the cholla’s love to cling onto shoes, clothes and anything else that might brush against them. I highly recommend packing your coffee and making a morning of it. When we were done watching nature’s light show we hopped in our car and made our way back to town to grab some breakfast.

*Classic car spotted outside Pappy + Harriet’s*

WHERE TO EAT

Campbell Hill Bakery - Amazing bakery! Secret’s out about this place so be prepared to wait if you don’t get there first thing in the morning. Don’t miss out on the breakfast sandwich.

Crossroads Cafe - Quirky diner with yummy breakfast and large portions

Pappy + Harriet’s - An independent music venue and restaurant surrounded by mountain and sky. Anthony Bourdain ate here on No Reservations. The wait at this place is insane, but the BBQ does not disappoint (and as a girl from Kansas City….I know). There’s an area in the back that serves burgers, dogs and drinks if you want to just hang and listen to the live music without the long wait.

Red Dog Saloon - Hands down my favorite joint in Joshua Tree. Around the corner from Pappy + Harriet’s in Pioneertown. Amazing tacos and creative drinks in a funky setting. Usually has live music or DJ on the weekends. The vibes at this place are spot on!

The Dez - Specialty food market serving fresh and delicious salads and sandwiches to go. Excellent stop before heading into the park for the day.

Joshua Tree Coffee Co. - Marco and I are firm believers that where there is a national park, there is usually an awesome organic coffee roaster nearby. Joshua Tree did not disappoint. We left this place with 10 lbs of espresso beans to bring back with us!

SUNSET IN JOSHUA TREE

While most of your day in Joshua Tree can be spent driving around and finding various places to explore, I think you should find somewhere special to watch the sunset. For us, this was Ryan Mountain. This moderate 3 mile hike rewards you with panoramic views at the top. We began this hike about an hour before sunset and watched the sky begin to change from the top; however it was on our descend where Mother Nature really put on a show for us. The sky was like a 90’s tub of sherbet. If you are hiking back in darkness you’ll need headlamps for your descent.

Keys View is known for being the best place to watch sunset or sunrise in the park. If you are going during a busy weekend I recommend you arrive early as there is limited parking. We weren’t able to get close enough parking to go for sunset, but we found a nearby hilltop and still got amazing views. Added bonus — it was much more secluded.

*Large Joshua Tree spotted on the Panorama Loop Trail*

HIKING JOSHUA TREE

As I’ve mentioned before, JT is super accessible so it’s great for people of all athletic abilities as well kids. I’d rate most of the hikes here as easy to moderate. If you are looking for something with a little more elevation gain, I’d recommend Panorama Loop Trail. This 6.3 mile loop is considered by many to be one of the best hikes in the park. If you want an easy loop that is suitable for the whole family I would check out the Hidden Valley Nature Trail.

there may be plenty on your list to explore, but spend at least one afternoon getting lost in the park. After lunch at Pappy + Harriet’s, Marco and I spent the afternoon on Geology Tour Road — an 18 mile self guided driving tour along a dirt road that winds through some of the park’s most fascinating landscapes and rock formations.

Marco catching sunrise at the Cholla Cactus Garden in Joshua Tree National Park

After catching one last sunrise at Cholla Cactus Garden, Marco and I packed our car and began our journey back to LA. As we neared the final stretch of Joshua Tree we felt the engine cut and our car slowly roll to a stop. The park was empty (it wouldn’t open for another hour). All we could do was sit stranded and wait for a park ranger to drive by.

The lows in travel, just like in life, help us appreciate the highs. While we certainly couldn’t have anticipated being towed the 140 miles back to LA, it is a story we continue to giggle about to this day. In some ways it makes the memories that much clearer.

*Hole in the Wall Beach in Olympic National Park*

Beach Camping at Hole in the Wall

August 15, 2023 by Alexandra Matteo

We could not have picked a worse time of year for our PNW backpacking adventure. With the wildfires in full swing and just generally gloomy/rainy weather, I was nervous that our journey through Olympic National Park would be a waste.

After weeks of journeying through Oregon and Washington, our last stop was to head to the coast to camp at Hole in the Wall. Now….if I were to do this trip again, I would recommend going in the summer, but given Marco’s work schedule, we did this the first week of October. And to be honest….it was a wild experience and I wouldn’t change a thing about it.

As we rolled up to Rialto Beach we were greeted by, what can only be described as, a post apocalyptic version of a beach. Giant trees and driftwood that had been swept ashore were scattered as far as the high could see.

*Driftwood along the shore of Rialto Beach in Olympic National Park*

When we arrived at Rialto Beach it was still high tide, so we had some time to explore before our short hike to where we would camp. It’s important to hike in/out at low tide as there’s no “formal trail” here. If you attempt the trek at high tide you will end up climbing over fallen trees and an unmarked wooded area and it will make your journey much less enjoyable.

Quick Tip! In order to camp at Hole in the Wall you will need to obtain a backcountry permit. You can make your reservations here at the National Park Service website. Click on the “North Coast” and then “Hole-in-the-wall”. They will email you the information on where to pick up your permit.

*Huge piece of driftwood on Rialto Beach in Washington*

Along our way towards the giant rock formations in the distance we found a place to set up camp. It’s important to note that because of the tides you need to set up camp further back in the trees. If you are like me, who had seen many photos of bloggers with their tents set up steps from the ocean…let me burst your bubble now. No one is camping overnight that close to the water. You would surely get swept out to sea. We found a spot far enough back but with views galore and set up camp.

After lightening our load we continued our journey towards the majestic rock formations and tide pools nearby. As we approached Hole in the Wall it was hard to ignore all of the people staring into the shallow water just north of the hole. That’s because there is an entire colorful world happening just below your feet. Many sea creatures and starfish live in these tiny pools of water so watch where you step.

*Camping at Hole in the Wall Beach in Washington State.*

As the sun began to set we headed back to camp to collect our driftwood and get our fire started. Despite the cold and dreary weather it was one of my favorite nights under the stars. There’s something so magical about a beach on a dreary day. As if the memory has a moody texture attached to it. I’m a firm believer in romanticizing your own life and as I look back on photos from that day, it’s hard not recall the memory in a cinematic way. I’ll never forget returning to my parents’ home and trying to relay what the ocean sounded like in the middle of the night. “It sounded angry” I said “not like the waves of Hawaii you think about when you hear ‘beach camping.’ This is the ocean sailors wrote poems about.”